Hang around Commandos long enough and headsteadys always come up. The idea is they are the 3rd engine mount point ( the others are the front and rear Isos). Since 3 points make a plane, this defines the plane of the power train half of the bike. In order for the bike to handle correctly the plane of the front wheel and the plane of the rear wheel need to be keep in absolute alignment. Where the headsteady comes into play is when the rear wheel attempts to push out of plane with the front wheel. The headsteady is supposed to counter this, therefore it should not allow any side to side movement.

As you may have guessed the stock unit was a bit aneamic. Its held in plane with elastic buffers, and although these are pretty stiff, the allow side to side and thusly affect handling. 

So, what to do?

As I see it there are 5 main categories

1. Stock - I guess you can tune it to get the best performance possible, but still considered inadequate. 
2. Norvil - Apparently the original design (this was discarded as too expensive by the bean counters, but used on the JPN and race bikes).
3. What I guess you'd called the Keith1069 version - Home made rose/heim joint design
4. Dave Taylor and CNW - production rose/heim joint designs
5. Remove it altogether and move it to below the engine - for the guy into really makes modifications like Kenny Dreer and Hobot.

Just like all Norton topics, ranking these or discussing which one is most suitable would lead to a 7 page discussion - however I was most interested in 3 and 4.

I originally was all set to copy the one Keith1069 outlined at http://www.accessnorton.com/the-keith1069-headsteady-t5862.html. But then I saw the ones at CNW

 http://coloradonortonworks.com/catalog/engine.asp and realized I'd rather try for that. 

To make a long story short - I attempted to copy the CNW version that Jim Comstock developed. I did this primarily as a way to hone my machining skills, not as a way to in any way rip off CNW or Jim. I have the highest respect for their work and contribution to the Norton World. But I got this mill about 5 years ago and I really wanted to use it...

After all's said and done, I was able to create what I think is a pretty credible version, but it took over a week of my time and that makes the CNW/Comstock product (which is much nicer - really artwork, has a better fit and finish and a much better joint) more than reasonable. Next bike will get one of the CNW versions. However I DID learn a few things about my rotary turntable...

I haven't had a chance to set it up yet, but will post something when I do.